Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.